ARCHIVED FEATURE FROM 2006
The Blend Trend… the next revolution
in fine wines?
Wines blended from several different varietals are the norm in Europe.
Here in the New World we do not have the benefits that come with age-old
wine regions and vineyards, synonymous with a
of varietals, on which reputations have been built; winemaking in North
America got its start emphasizing single varietal wines...Chardonnay,
Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.
Over the past several Pacific Northwest vintages, however, the observant
visitor to our many wine regions and wine shops has, no doubt, noticed the
increased availability of blended, high-end wines... Bordeaux-style and
Rhone-style blends (both red and white), Super Tuscan-style blends and many
other red and white proprietary blends that allow winemakers to balance the
structure, flavors and acidity of their wines. We are learning which
varietals grow best in our regions and which combine well for more complex
and interesting wines.
Blended wines are not a new phenomenon in the Pacific Northwest, of course;
they have been available for quite some time, usually in the form of table
wines at the bottom of the price scale. Today's blend trend is
evidenced in the premium wine lists of wineries, restaurants and wine shops
throughout the region.
“There is a subtle, mysterious quality about blends. They tend to be
much more complex and interesting when assembled properly, and in my
mind, they provide the most complete wine experience whether enjoyed on
their own or with food.”
Mark Colvin, Colvin Vineyards, Walla Walla Valley
Wine as art reaches the apex of its potential, agree many winemakers, when
its creation allows the free hand of the winemaker to blend multiple
wine-grape varietals from selected vineyards each vintage. Vintages vary
more from year to year in the Pacific Northwest than in many other North
American winegrowing regions; winemakers here vary percentages of each
varietal every year in their blended wines to compensate for vintage
influences on vineyard fruit. In their annual quest to find the
“perfect” balance of flavors, acid levels and structure in their wines,
winemakers vary the combination and percentages of grape varietals to create
their final, nuanced blends.
Captivated by the synergism of blending wines,
renowned Washington winemaker, wine consultant and winery designer Brian
Carter organized Brian Carter Cellars as a boutique artisan
in the spring of 2005, the first in Washington to
focus exclusively on an array of hand-crafted European-style blended wines.
General manager Mike Stevens recently announced plans for a Woodinville-area
tasting room set to open the end May of 2006.
“I am excited about making European-style blended wines,” says Carter.
“Under the Brian Carter label, I will be able to concentrate on my passion
for wines of complexity, while showcasing the terroir of Washington. With
our plans to open a winery in Woodinville, I can share with visitors the art
and essence of making and blending great wines.”
Brian Carter Cellars currently produces five core blended
wines including two Bordeaux-style blends, a Rhône-style blend, a Super
Tuscan-style blend and a white blend:
(French-“The Stallion”) Bordeaux-style Blend: Yakima Valley; Cabernet,
Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot;
(Latin “Essence” and “Sun”) Signature Bordeaux-style Blend: Columbia
Valley; Merlot, Cab, Cab Franc, Malbec;
Rhône-style Blend: Yakima Valley; Grenache, and Syrah;
Tuttorosso (Italian –“All Red”)
Super Tuscan-style Blend: Yakima Valley; Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon,
(Latin-“Golden Lady”) Rhône-style White Blend: Yakima Valley; Roussanne,
Riesling, and Viognier.
“This is a fantastic time to be part of
Washington winemaking," says Carter. "The next revolution in fine
wine is in the increased interest in blended wines in this country.
We have an excellent selection of fruit available that allows a winemaker to
produce extraordinary quality blended wines. By handcrafting each
particular blend, I am able to bring forth the inherent beauty of the fruit,
the unique qualities of the terroir, and fulfill my vision of a superbly
blends... variations on a theme
The "royal grapes" which comprise the finest Bordeaux's in the world also
grow well in the warmer wine regions of the Pacific Northwest.
Probably the most common blend combines varying percentages of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, depending on winemaker styles and vintage influences.
An A-to-Z list probably could be put together showing Pacific Northwest
wineries that produce such blends. When additional varietals of the
Bordeaux type grapes are included in a blend, the results are usually a more
Knowing the percentages of each varietal in a blend can provide important
information about what the consumer can expect, if a rudimentary knowledge
of varietal flavor profiles is
cultivated. Winemakers may choose from traditional Bordeaux varietals like
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, as well
as a few others of less-known status.
Winemaker John Haw of Maryhill Winery,
near the Stonehenge memorial along the Washington side of the Columbia
River, chose to lead with 40% Malbec (with its deeply aromatic and intense
character) in his 2003 Serendipity blend. Bordeaux type blends that
include Malbec, except in Argentina, generally contain only a small
percentage of this classic grape; this Proprietor's Reserve blended wine may
be one of a kind with its Malbec supported by 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20%
Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The American Wine Society gave it a gold
medal in December of 2005.
Malbec plays a slightly smaller, but major, role in Ray Sandidge's 2002 C.R.
Sandidge TRI * Umph. A quadruple medal winner at
2006 Jerry D. Mead New World International Wine Competition, this
elegant red blend contains 26% Malbec along with 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and
10% Merlot. Renowned wine writer Janice Robinson referred to Ray
Sandidge as one of Washington's Rising Stars in 2000; others suggest
Sandidge has a "gift for blending."
Carmenère Bordeaux grape has since been abandoned in France. Thanks in large
part to Mark Colvin, owner and
of Colvin Vineyards, it has found a new home in the Walla Walla
Valley. Reviving the Bordeaux varietal allows Colvin not only to
produce the region's only straight Carmenère varietal wine, but also to step
up the complexity of his blended wines. Colvin wines that include some
amount of the grape are distinct from the usual Bordeaux-type blend.
Colvin centers his winemaking passions on Cabernet Sauvignon and complex
blends created by adding other Bordeaux grapes including Merlot, Cabernet
Franc, Petite Verdot, Malbec and, of course, Carmenère.
“There is a subtle, mysterious quality about blends," says Mark Colvin.
"They tend to be much more complex and interesting when assembled properly,
and in my mind, they provide the most complete wine experience whether
enjoyed on their own or with food.”
conventional blended wines
Over the centuries, European wine regions have become synonymous with
specific varietals traditionally grown there. Winemakers must use
those varietals, if their labels bare that region's name. Grape
growing in Pacific Northwest wine regions is in its infancy, and
experimental vineyards continue to be planted to determine which varietals
will flourish. Use of a region's name on a label promises only the
origin of the grapes, not specific varietals. With many varietals
grown in each wine region, winemakers can experiment with unconventional
blends of multiple varieties.
Gus Janeway uses this freedom to produce unusual blends for his Velocity
Wine Cellars from grapes grown in the Southern Oregon appellation. His
Velocity wines are unusual only in the fresh ideas they bring to the
question of which wines should be combined. Characterized by
unconventional blends, Velocity wines are balanced, elegant and nimble
partners for the seasonal fresh food of the Pacific Northwest. With
several vintages of his Velocity and Velo red blends behind him, Janeway has
begun to win awards for his distinctive wines; at last year's World of
Wine Fest, his 2003 Velocity earned a Gold Medal in the Best Red Blend
category. This velvety red blend is Velocity Cellars' flagship
wine and is based on the deeply aromatic and intense Malbec grape, supported
by an alchemy of traditional Bordelaise varietals, spiced by a small
percentage of Syrah. The actual blend varies with the vintage.
In one of Washington's newest appellations,
Horse Heaven Hills, Alexandria
Nicole Cellars also uses Syrah in its otherwise Bordeaux-type blend
in its proprietary wine Destiny Ridge Vineyard Quarry Butte. Quarry
Butte earned 90 Points from Wine and Spirits magazine for its
elegant expression of five varietals grown in the unique terroir of
Alexandria Nicole's Destiny Ridge Vineyard. Barrel aged in both French
and American Oak barrels for 16 months, this blend of 56% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 4% Syrah, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec is backed
by a balanced structure and silky smooth finish.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars also earned 91 Points in Wine and Spirits
magazine for its Destiny Ridge Vineyard Shepherd's Mark, a white
blend of Roussanne (70%), Viognier and Marsanne.
Any discussion of Less Conventional Blended Wines would be remiss if it did
not include the wines of Wade Wolfe, winemaker and co-owner of Thurston
Wolfe Winery in Prosser,
Wolfe is known for his love of blending unusual varieties to create table
wines unique to Thurston Wolfe and Washington State.
Consider the Dr. Wolfe's Family Red, a proprietary blend that, in the 2004
vintage, includes 62% Primativo (an Italian clone of Zinfandel), 16% Petite
Sirah and 16% Lemberger. Wolfe's white blend, Thurston Wolfe's PGV,
is blend of Pinot Gris and Viognier. His 2005 PGV is comprised of 70%
Viognier and 30% Pinot Gris.
These unusual Thurston Wolfe blends are not the product of novice
experimentation. Dr. Wade Wolfe is a true veteran of Washington's wine
industry. With degrees in viticulture and biochemistry, and a PhD in
plant genetics from the University of California at Davis, Wolfe chose
Washington over California in 1978 when he came to the more pioneering wine
region of the two, and accepted a position with Chateau Ste. Michelle as
technical viticulturalist, and in 1981 as director of vineyards. By
the time he left Ste. Michelle in 1985 to open his own vineyard-consulting
business and take over winemaking duties at Hyatt Vineyards, Wolfe had a
comprehensive knowledge of where specific grape varieties grew best in
eastern Washington and where plantings of alternative red-grape varieties
might succeed. In 1991 he accepted a position as general manager for
production at Hogue Cellars in the eastern end of the Yakima Valley, and in
1996, relocated his family, as well as their winery and tasting room to a
new facility in the Prosser Business Park, just one block from Hogue
Cellars. It was in 2004 that Wolfe left his position at Hogue to
dedicate all his time to Thurston Wolfe and planning the construction of a
new winery in the new Benton County Business Park in Prosser. The
debut of the new Thurston Wolfe winery occurred during the Yakima Valley's
Wine and Chocolate event in February of 2006.
One of the most unusual combinations of varietals is
found in Oregon’s Penner-Ash Wine Cellars' Rubeo
blend of Pinot noir and Syrah. Lynn Penner-Ash
and her husband, Ron, first compiled the blend from
young vines of a Pinot noir they felt wasn’t yet
ready for their reserve bottling. The Syrah
was sourced from southern Oregon’s Del Rio vineyard.
The grapes form a kind of study in contrasts with
Pinot’s flavor profile known for its delicate,
subtle tastes, and it is rarely blended. Syrah is
brawny and versatile, with deep flavors.
Repeated tastings of the blend were required to find
the right balance for the more forceful grape; about
one-quarter of the final 2002 Rubeo blend is Syrah.
One of Idaho's wineries is well situated to produce unusual
blends. Sawtooth Winery's
Brad Pintler, winemaker and general manager, is definitely in the right place
for blending inspiration. As
manager of Skyline Vineyards, the
largest vineyard planting in the Snake River Valley,
he is able to select from its wide variety of grapes
for blended wines. His Skyline Red was first
produced with the 2003 vintage and combined the
unlikely mix of 47% Syrah, 47% Cabernet, 2%
Tempranillo, 2% Primativo and 2% Merlot.
Comparing the 2003 blend with more recently released
vintages suggests Pintler may be tinkering with the
Skyline Red formula. His 2004 blend was a
combination of 40% Syrah, 40% Cabernet, 3%
Tempranillo and 10% Merlot.
Such blending projects rely heavily on winemakers’
skills. Traditional European blends have been
refined over centuries; though new-fangled combos
generally follow similar blending principles to hone
a precise mix, successful blends might fail
miserably in less skilled hands.
Here and there in old-time European vineyards, particularly in Chianti and
parts of France, it was - and occasionally still is - the custom to plant
different grape varieties together in the same vineyard,
harvesting them all together and making wine from this mixed
bounty. European immigrants brought this practice to the New World,
particularly in California where the roots of the wine industry are strongly
Italian. Zinfandel and Petite Sirah made natural vineyard companions,
along with Carignan and a few other varieties - some of which remain
inter-planted to this day.
Field blending is uncommon in modern vineyards for several reasons, not the
least of which is the varying ripening time required by different grapes.
One remnant of this old-world practice can be found in
Kestrel View Vineyards, home to some of the oldest Chardonnay,
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec vines in Washington
state. A few vines of Malbec were inter-planted with Cabernet
Sauvignon vines more than 30 years ago. All grapes in this old-vines
block are harvested together in a field-blend for
Old Vines Cabernet. A grower in Idaho's Snake River Valley refers to
Malbec as "the magic ingredient" of many fine blended wines, and Kestrel's
Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon certainly validates the concept, even though the
portion of Malbec in the wine is very small.
During your next wine country trip, be sure to try a few red or white
blends and enjoy the special synergies of various grapes working
together to make something magically delicious. Watch for these
wines in your local wine shops, too.
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previously published feature articles:
"Wine Country Digest"- Table of
Copyright © 2006 -
July, 2016 Susan R. O'Hara. All rights reserved.
July 19, 2016