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Tracing the Roots of Eastern Washington’s Wine Country
Story by Lisa Anderson

Looking Back... The Wenatchee Valley

     Grape vines were first planted in Wenatchee in 1873.  John Galler, a Dutch trapper, made a home for himself on the south side of Columbia River with his Indian bride who saved him after he fell into a river, abandoned by his travel partners.  Galler established a homestead and began by planting

orchards, supplying them with water through irrigation ditches he made.  Following the success of his orchards, Galler planted twenty acres of grapevines and used the grapes to produce a German-style wine.  In 1921, an article in the Wenatchee Daily quotes one of Galler’s neighbors as saying Galler produced 15-20 barrels of wine a year.  Galler reportedly earned $2000 a year in profits from sales of the wine

       It wasn’t long before other early Wenatchee residents also tried their hands at winemaking.  Philip Miller, a German who owned an impressive 640-acre ranch, planted a vineyard in 1874 comprised of 5-8 acres of grapes.  In a letter Miller wrote to the Wenatchee Advance in 1894, he mentions making between 1300 and 1500 gallons of wine annually. 

Pioneers of the Columbia Valley's Wine Industry

     Washington’s Gold Rush brought an influx of people and commerce between 1897 and 1900;  communities across the state benefited… even the community of Eastern Washington’s Grandview in the Columbia Valley.   An early resident of town, Seattle water and irrigation attorney Elvert Blaine, actually gained his wealth from an irrigation deal.

       Blaine’s new-found wealth allowed him to invest in property, and in an industry he decided had potential – the wine industry!  He planted grape vines and founded Stone House Winery.  Seeking to raise the quality of winemaking at his winery, Blaine was among the first to bring a professional winemaker to the region.  In 1903, Blaine hired Paul Charvet, a French Canadian who also ran a winery in his own home.  That same year, the city of Kennewick hosted the Columbia River Valley Grape Carnival — the first of its kind in the region and a telltale sign of an expanding industry.

       In nearby Sunnyside, William Bridgman saw the same potential in Washington’s wine industry Blaine saw.  In 1899, at age 20, Bridgman imagined grapes growing in Eastern Washington valleys during a visit to the Northwest.  His family grew grapes near Niagara Falls in Canada, so Bridgman knew firsthand what it would take to be successful with a vineyard.  If grapes could be successfully grown in Canada, surely they could prosper in a more southerly locale.

Eastern Washington's
Wine Regions

The Terroir

Yakima Valley
    Looking Back...
    Today's scene
    Wineries Map
    Nearby Lodging
    Nearby Dining

Red Mountain
    Looking Back...
    Today's scene
    Wineries Map
    Nearby Lodging
    Nearby Dining

Columbia Valley
    Looking Back...
    Today's scene
    Wineries Map
    Nearby Lodging
    Nearby Dining

Walla Walla Valley
    Looking Back...
    Today's scene
    Wineries Map
    Nearby Lodging
    Nearby Dining

Wenatchee Valley
     Looking Back...

Early Statewide Historic Roots

Pioneers of Eastern Washington's Wine Industry

Prohibition's Impact

Bad News... WWII and Fortified Wines

The Trail to Quality

Today's Wines


       Bridgman moved to Sunnyside in 1902, and within a short time, he was elected mayor.  Just outside Sunnyside, Bridgman found two areas ripe for grape vines.  He planted Harrison Hill in 1914,  and three years later added additional vineyard acres at Harrison Hill.  In 1917, he planted Snipes Mountain vineyard.  The wines made from  these vineyards convinced Bridgman his initial vision had paid off.  He continued to expand his vineyards.

       More and more settlers moved to newly established towns and cities dotting the landscape of Eastern Washington.  The future of the young winemaking industry looked promising.  But the journey had just begun.  The road ahead would long and arduous.

Prohibition's Impact

       Prohibition hit the early Washington wine industry hard.  What began as an effort to eliminate problems blamed on the frequenting of saloons quickly escalated into a political issue.  In 1917, Washington State outlawed the consumption of alcohol.  In December of that year, the 18th amendment to the Constitution passed, prohibiting the manufacture, sale or transportation of intoxicating liquors… including wine.  In January of 1919, three fourths of the country’s states ratified the amendment.  Prohibition officially began one year later. 

       During Prohibition, Washington’s grape industry continued to grow while its fledgling wine industry began to die.  Bridgman was one individual who didn’t lose heart.  In fact, he continued expanding his vineyards, making new plantings despite Prohibition. 

       One unexpected positive effect of Prohibition was the expansion of home winemaking.  Many previously inexperienced individuals began making wine at home;  the law allowed them to do so in small amounts.  Grapes for these home winemaking ventures were purchased from vineyard owners like Bridgman and Frank Subucco of Walla Walla who offered a number of varietals for sale.  But while winemaking expanded, wineries closed. 

The Repeal of Prohibition
and the Washington Liquor Act

     Eventually, Prohibition’s appeal waned, and the United States created the 21st amendment, repealing Prohibition in February 1933.  The amendment was ratified by the end of the year. 

       Along with the national repeal, Washington State passed the Washington Liquor Act designed to moderate the drinking of alcoholic beverages.  The act accomplished several things.  It prohibited sales of hard liquor by the glass, but permitted “taverns” to sell wine and beer.  It established the Washington State Liquor Control Board — a governing body still in place today.  It set up a network of State liquor stores and authorized them to purchase alcohol and sell bottled wine.  And finally, it gave a tax break to Washington wineries growing their own fruit.  In effect, this financial break  helped reduce competition from California, giving Washington wineries a chance to get off the ground.

       Following the repeal of Prohibition, Bridgman re-established his winery and re-named it Upland Winery.  He started by hiring trained enologist Erich Steenborg who studied at a major wine institute in Germany.  Together, they set out to produce table wines.

       Bridgman’s excitement and determination were no doubt key to a new boom in the wine industry of Eastern Washington.  Many new wineries emerged on the scene, both small and large.  The National Wine Company (Nawico) set up shop in 1935 and became a major producer of the state’s wine.  While Nawico’s winery was located in Grandview, its business operations were run in a Seattle office.  By 1938, there were 42 wineries located all throughout the state.  Once again, the picture looked rosy for Washington wineries.

Bad News... World War II and Fortified Wine

     With the arrival of World War II, many wineries could no longer thrive and eventually had to close.  But wineries that survived were quite successful, including Upland Winery and American Wine Growers.  These wineries, however, adopted a practice that would serve to accomplish their undoing:  fortifying wine.

       The practice of fortifying wine (adding alcohol to it), started during World War II in response to a shortage of hard liquor.  While drinkers liked having a substitute for hard liquor, fine wine consumers shied away from the fortified beverages, which bore little resemblance to European style wine.  After the war ended and the shortage was over, these wineries were left with no premium wine, only an excess of fortified wines that couldn’t compete with real hard liquor.  As a result, Upland Winery, once considered ahead of its time and successful for so many years, began its demise.  Bridgman eventually sold the winery in 1960.  But Nawico managed to survive.  Nawico was bought by Pommerelle (another Washington winery) and renamed American Wine Growers. 

The Trail to Quality...  Next Page
 


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