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A Process of Discovery
Tried and True, and Even New...
There is no doubt. The
story of Washington's burgeoning wine industry is well into
its next chapter. Defining and distinguishing special
growing regions, worthy of appellation/American
Viticultural Area status, takes years
of localized growing experiences and evidence to prove the
distinctive nature of your area. And the proof is in
the grapevine. |
News
Flash !!
July 1, 2005

It's
Official... Horse Heaven Hills appellation authorized
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More than a few tried and proven Washington wine regions
have plenty of evidence, and their exhibits bare names like
Horse Heaven, Canoe Ridge, Rattlesnake Ridge, Champoux
and
Celilo...
vineyards, that is. Groups of growers and winemakers
are collaborating to
combine their data, their
common goals and interests in an
effort to make a case for
designating their regions as official American Viticultural
Areas and to make application to the federal
Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and
Trade Bureau (TTB)
– a comprehensive and
laborious process.
The agency authorizes
American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) — "appellations"
elsewhere in the world — after determining a proposed region
has soils, climate and other natural factors that warrant
distinguishing it from other areas.
Industry members involved
with the vineyards and lands of the
Wahluke Slope
area
(north of the Yakima Valley),
Horse Heaven Hills (south
of the Yakima Valley) and the
Columbia Gorge (between
the eastern edge of the Columbia Valley appellation and the
White Salmon River) have
already applied to
TTB for AVA authorization of
their growing areas, and are now waiting for the agency's
decision. (Update: Application authorized May 10, 2004.
Columbia Gorge AVA now official.
Horse Heaven Hills authorized July 1, 2005, effective August
1.)
Just last month (March 2004), an application was filed for
the proposed
Rattlesnake
Hills region. Gail
Puryear, co-owner of
Bonair Winery
near Zillah, filed an application for the status on behalf
of 28 growers, with 23 operating wineries, within the
proposed boundaries.
Lake Chelan Winegrowers
Association recently completed the data-gathering and all other
application requirements necessary to propose their
Lake Chelan
growing area
as an AVA. Association members currently await the
finalized legal submission of the documents. At that
point, they will join the ranks of those other Washington
regions awaiting TTB decisions.
One other Washington wine-growing region is working hard to
acquire AVA status for the
Columbia Cascade region
in Central Washington.
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The Process of Discovery
Winegrowers throughout the Washington
are
discovering and documenting
some of the best wine-growing regions of the state.
Accumulated vintage histories eventually document the level
of quality and consistency a specific region reasonably can
expect over the years. Many growers and winemakers
east of Washington's Cascade Mountains have joined ranks to
use their shared information for distinguishing themselves
from other growing regions. Together, they document
successful high-quality grape growing in their region, and
define the geographic boundaries that mark the extent of their
proposed AVA – boundaries that not only establish the
defined area, but often constitute the very geologic
characteristics that are key to the success of that specific growing region.
Successfully differentiating and geographically defining a
proposed AVA as it is distinct from other growing regions is the heart of the federal application
process. If authorized, AVA designations make it
easier for wineries to effectively market themselves as
producers within this newly authorized and officially
recognized appellation.
Consumers begin to associate wineries with specific
appellations/AVAs, and to try other wines from the same
region. Side-by-side tastings of same-grape wines from
several different growing regions is always interesting, and
can lead to favorites defined by region rather than by
winery selection alone.
Wine-Region
“Discoveries”
The number of Washington State AVA applications made over
the last three years
reflect what seems a natural "next step" for Washington's
evolving wine industry. Kevin Corliss,
director of viticulture for Ste Michelle Wine Estates
(formerly Stimson Lane), which owns
Columbia Crest
and vineyards located in the proposed Horse Heaven Hills AVA,
calls it a "process of discovery."
The youth of
Washington's wine industry promises many new discoveries in
years to come. After all, the Yakima Valley and
Columbia Valley appellations (Washington's oldest)
just turned 20 years old in 2003 and 2004, respectively.
Some Washington vineyards, of course, predate official AVA
authorizations -- a few by many years.
As vineyard sites are planted
and ultimately harvested,
the resulting grapes and wines are evaluated each vintage.
Growers and vintners
discover which micro-climates are most suitable for
chosen varietals.
When those involved discover the area is worthy of special
note, they may consider the pursuit of American Viticultural
Area status for their region.
Four growing
regions of Washington –
Wahluke Slope,
Horse Heaven Hills,
Rattlesnake Hills
and
the
Columbia Gorge –
have done just
that... applied for federal authorization as "American Viticultural Areas." One more
area –
Lake Chelan
– awaits the completion of its final, legal
submission process. After that, they too will join the waiting game.

Number six of
the Washington regions actively pursuing AVA status is the
large central and north-central area its growers and
wineries have named the
Columbia Cascade region.
Association members working to define this area are in only
the first stage of their application process due to the far
more complex task of geographically defining such a large
area.
All these areas, except the proposed Columbia Gorge
and the Columbia Cascade regions, are sub-regions of
the already-recognized
Columbia Valley appellation.
Just as the Yakima Valley
and Walla Walla Valley
appellations are contained within the larger "macro"
appellation of the Columbia Valley, so too will
Wahluke Slope, Rattlesnake Hills and Horse Heaven
Hills regions –
should they be approved –
lie inside Washington's largest AVA. These
regions based
their applications on years of experience, growing and
producing wines, that have confirmed the
distinctiveness of their individual defined regions.
The
Wahluke Slope
region, for instance, is waiting to hear whether its warmer
temperatures and earlier ripening than most other Washington
growing
regions will lead to a favorable outcome on its AVA
application. Being one of the warmest areas
in the state, it is ideal for red wine varieties like
merlot, syrah and cabernet
sauvignon and produces crisp white
wines with
generous aromatics.
So warm is this site that
Sagelands Vineyard
(Chalone Wine Group) planted 112 acres here (110 to
Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 to Malbec) trending 20-30 degrees
from north to minimize the risk of fruit sunburn.
Laying out vineyards in this manner is a notable departure
from standard north-south row orientation used in Washington
State.
Historically, the area of the
proposed Wahluke Slope AVA
sustains less grapevine damage after the occasional
harsh winter. Its soils are silt loam with relatively
high sand content. The terroir produces grapes with
intense fruit aromas, and
its natural boundaries -- the
Columbia River to the west and south and wildlife refuges on
the east and north -- eliminate the often controversial
subject of defining the extent of an appellation.
Taste Wahluke Slope Wine
Rattlesnake Hills & Horse Heaven Hills - continue
on next page... |
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Index to previously published feature
articles:
"Wine Country Digest"
Table of contents

Copyright © 2004- 2008 Susan R. O'Hara. All rights reserved.
Last revised:
December 31, 2007
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