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A Process of Discovery

Tried and True, and Even New...

Six Washington State Winegrowing Regions Actively Pursue Official Appellation Status

       There is no doubt.  The story of Washington's burgeoning wine industry is well into its next chapter.  Defining and distinguishing special growing regions, worthy of appellation/American Viticultural Area status, takes years of localized growing experiences and evidence to prove the distinctive nature of your area.  And the proof is in the grapevine.

News Flash !!
July 1, 2005

It's Official... Horse Heaven Hills appellation authorized
 

       More than a few tried and proven Washington wine regions have plenty of evidence, and their exhibits bare names like Horse Heaven, Canoe Ridge, Rattlesnake Ridge, ChampouxProposed appellations map for Washington wine growing regions and Celilo... vineyards, that is.  Groups of growers and winemakers are collaborating to combine their data, their common goals and interests in an effort to make a case for designating their regions as official American Viticultural Areas and to make application to the federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) a comprehensive and laborious process.  The agency authorizes American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) — "appellations" elsewhere in the world — after determining a proposed region has soils, climate and other natural factors that warrant distinguishing it from other areas.

 

       Industry members involved with the vineyards and lands of the Wahluke Slope area (north of the Yakima Valley), Horse Heaven Hills (south of the Yakima Valley) and the Columbia Gorge (between the eastern edge of the Columbia Valley appellation and the White Salmon River) have already applied to TTB for AVA authorization of their growing areas, and are now waiting for the agency's decision. (Update: Application authorized May 10, 2004.  Columbia Gorge AVA now official.  Horse Heaven Hills authorized July 1, 2005, effective August 1.)

          Just last month (March 2004), an application was filed for the proposed Rattlesnake Hills regionGail Puryear, co-owner of Bonair Winery near Zillah, filed an application for the status on behalf of 28 growers, with 23 operating wineries, within the proposed boundaries.

       Lake Chelan Winegrowers Association recently completed the data-gathering and all other application requirements necessary to propose their Lake Chelan growing area as an AVA.  Association members currently await the finalized legal submission of the documents.  At that point, they will join the ranks of those other Washington regions awaiting TTB decisions. 

       One other Washington wine-growing region is working hard to acquire AVA status for the Columbia Cascade region in Central Washington.

The Process of Discovery

       Winegrowers throughout the Washington are discovering and documenting some of the best wine-growing regions of the state.  Accumulated vintage histories eventually document the level of quality and consistency a specific region reasonably can expect over the years.  Many growers and winemakers east of Washington's Cascade Mountains have joined ranks to use their shared information for distinguishing themselves from other growing regions.  Together, they document successful high-quality grape growing in their region, and define the geographic boundaries that mark the extent of their proposed AVA – boundaries that not only establish the defined area, but often constitute the very geologic characteristics that are key to the success of that specific growing region. 

 

           Successfully differentiating and geographically defining a proposed AVA as it is distinct from other growing regions is the heart of the federal application process.  If authorized, AVA designations make it easier for wineries to effectively market themselves as producers within this newly authorized and officially recognized appellation.

 

           Consumers begin to associate wineries with specific appellations/AVAs, and to try other wines from the same region.  Side-by-side tastings of same-grape wines from several different growing regions is always interesting, and can lead to favorites defined by region rather than by winery selection alone. 

 


Wine-Region Discoveries

     The number of Washington State AVA applications made over the last three years reflect what seems a natural "next step" for Washington's evolving wine industry.  Kevin Corliss, director of viticulture for Ste Michelle Wine Estates (formerly Stimson Lane), which owns Columbia Crest and vineyards located in the proposed Horse Heaven Hills AVA, calls it a "process of discovery." 

 

         The youth of Washington's wine industry promises many new discoveries in years to come.  After all, the Yakima Valley and Columbia Valley appellations (Washington's oldest) just turned 20 years old in 2003 and 2004, respectively.  Some Washington vineyards, of course, predate official AVA authorizations -- a few by many years.

 

         As vineyard sites are planted and ultimately harvested, the resulting grapes and wines are evaluated each vintage.  Growers and vintners discover which micro-climates are most suitable for chosen varietals.  When those involved discover the area is worthy of special note, they may consider the pursuit of American Viticultural Area status for their region.

 

         Four growing regions of Washington – Wahluke Slope, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills and the Columbia Gorge have done just that... applied for federal authorization as "American Viticultural Areas."  One more area – Lake Chelan – awaits the completion of its final, legal submission process.  After that, they too will join the waiting game. 

Benson Vineyard, Lake Chelan wine region, Washington

          Number six of the Washington regions actively pursuing AVA status is the large central and north-central area its growers and wineries have named the Columbia Cascade region.  Association members working to define this area are in only the first stage of their application process due to the far more complex task of geographically defining such a large area. 

          All these areas, except the proposed Columbia Gorge and the Columbia Cascade regions, are sub-regions of the already-recognized Columbia Valley appellation Just as the Yakima Valley and Walla Walla Valley appellations are contained within the larger "macro" appellation of the Columbia Valley, so too will Wahluke Slope, Rattlesnake Hills and Horse Heaven Hills regions should they be approved lie inside Washington's largest AVA.  These regions based their applications on years of experience, growing and producing wines, that have confirmed the distinctiveness of their individual defined regions. 

The Wahluke Slope

 

          The Wahluke Slope region, for instance, is waiting to hear whether its warmer temperatures and earlier ripening than most other Washington growing regions will lead to a favorable outcome on its AVA application. Being one of the warmest areas in the state, it is ideal for red wine varieties like merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon and produces crisp white wines with generous aromatics.

          So warm is this site that Sagelands Vineyard (Chalone Wine Group) planted 112 acres here (110 to Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 to Malbec) trending 20-30 degrees from north to minimize the risk of fruit sunburn.  Laying out vineyards in this manner is a notable departure from standard north-south row orientation used in Washington State.

          Historically, the area of the proposed Wahluke Slope AVA sustains less grapevine damage after the occasional harsh winter.  Its soils are silt loam with relatively high sand content.  The terroir produces grapes with intense fruit aromas, and its natural boundaries -- the Columbia River to the west and south and wildlife refuges on the east and north -- eliminate the often controversial subject of defining the extent of an appellation. 

Taste Wahluke Slope Wine

Rattlesnake Hills & Horse Heaven Hills - continue on next page...


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Last revised: December 31, 2007