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WINES By Chuck Hill
About Chuck
CHUCK'S CURRENT EARLIER COLUMNS
Cabernet Sauvignon
Merlot & Sausage
Oysters & Mussels
Zinfandel...
Riesling & Crab
Pinot Noir &
Wines of the Week REVIEWS BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
OTHER STUFF
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Last Week's Reviews
Italian Varietals – Ciao Paisano! Wine is part of life in Italy. Italian families – both in Italy and America – take pride in fermenting their own wine for in-home use and introduce children of the family to watered-down wine almost as soon as they can hold a cup. The tradition is that wine goes with meals and with family. Our New Year tasting panel is busy evaluating Italian varietal wines from the Northwest along with those same wines crafted in California and Italy. To accompany delectable Italian varietals you need some seafood or chicken (for the whites, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and others) and some meaty pasta for the reds (Sangiovese, Barbera, Dolcetto and others). Chef Ted makes a mean Bolognese, and this year found another recipe from Emilia-Romagna (home region of Bolognese) that uses pancetta, veal and pork in addition to beef - delicious! Look for Ragu ala Contadina. Vino
Walla Walla wineries have made so many superb wines from the Milbrandt’s Evergreen Vineyard they ought to give it an honorary place in the Walla Walla Valley appellation. This delicious Pinot Grigio smells and tastes like summer – a welcome sensation in these dark, frigid days of Northwest winter. Look for aromas and flavors of pear, mineral, citrus, crisp apple and honeysuckle. As winemaker Charles Smith says, “Italian inspired, locally produced.”
Locati Cellars The patriarch of the Locati family, Joe Locati, arrived in the Walla Walla Valley from Corsica, Italy in 1905. The family has grown Walla Walla Sweet onions in the valley for more than 100 years. Locati Cellars was founded just a few years ago and recently opened their tasting room in downtown Walla Walla. This Pinot Grigio hails from the Wahluke Slope and offers bright aromas and flavors of pear, lemon zest, vanilla and floral notes Great with lighter seafood and chicken dishes.
Here is another taste of summer evoking daydreams of sitting out on the deck enjoying a cheese plate or chicken salad with artisan bread and sipping a refreshing, aromatic Moscato. Crafted from three Muscat varieties – Muscat Canelli, Morio Muskat and Black Muscat – this classy wine evokes the best of the varietal with aromas of rose petal, lychee and stone fruits followed by flavors of ripe peach, melon and notes of tropical orange.
This tasty Sangiovese Rosé comes from grapes grown at Southern Oregon’s Del Rio Vineyard. Grapes are harvested just short of peak ripeness to retain bright acidity and aromas as well as fresh red fruit flavors. Aromas of strawberries and raspberries with notes of rose petal and citrus lead to a juicy palate of berry and cherry flavors with a crisp, lingering finish.
Most tasters agreed that this is the way Sangiovese should be made in
the Pacific Northwest: high on fruit, low on oak, medium bodied, nice
acidity and great with food. It was the unanimous number one ranking in
the tasting, offering aromas of spicy cherry, raspberry, clove, cinnamon
and hints of vanilla and citrus. The palate is clean and flavorful
,showing dark fruits, barrel spice and creamy cassis.
Covington Cellars Another favorite of tasters for its balance and nuance, Covington Cellars Sangiovese offers aromas of spicy berry, earthy herbs, anise and floral and citrus notes. The palate is very Chianti like with restrained fruit and bright acidity, showing flavors of dark cherry, mineral and earth. Owners David and Cindy Lawson and winemaker Morgan Lee source fruit from Seven Hills Vineyard in Walla Walla and Kiona and Kestrel Vineyards in the east end of the Yakima Valley.
Trio Vintners Owner/winemaker Karen La Bonté crafts her Sangiovese from grapes grown at Mission Hills and Morrison Lane Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley AVA. This wine offers slightly bigger fruit and richer mouthfeel, but retains a nice balance and ample acidity. Look for aromas and flavors of dark cherry, tobacco leaf, minty herbs, espresso, raspberry candy and vanilla.
Isenhower Cellars Just a little over a decade of entrepreneurship defines the business side of Isenhower Cellars in Walla Walla with making wine, building a winery, planting vineyards and growing a family packed into ten short years beginning in the late 1990s. Isenhower Sangiovese is in the Walla Walla style of balancing rich fruit with intense oak flavors. Aromas of dark cherry, herbs, smoky cedar and vanilla lead to a palate with ripe berry, caramel, baking spice flavors and a finish of toasty vanilla.
Three Brothers Dan Anderson’s Sangiovese just picked up a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle wine competition, so the small production will likely be sold out very soon. Aromas of plum and cherry with floral and citrus notes are very appealing, with the palate offering red fruits, exotic spice and light vanilla. Balance on the palate and good acidity make for a tasty food wine.
Five Star Cellars This wine needs some aeration and breathing time to open up and show its best. An intense character of oak aging (caramel, toasty cedar, spice, vanilla) mingles with ripe dark fruits of cherry and cassis to form a powerful impression on the nose and palate. Meats from the grill are the best way to pair food with wines of this style.
Maryhill Winery The weather today at Maryhill Winery (don’t you just love webcams?) is cold and clear, and I’m sure there is a fire going in the tasting room fireplace. This cold weather makes one think of steaming hot comfort food like pasta Bolognese, paired with a glass of Sangiovese. Maryhill’s 2008 bottling offers aromas and flavors of red fruits, warm spices, toasty hazelnut, vanilla and herbs.
Sapolil Cellars The three friends mentioned in this wine’s name are Barbera (52%), Sangiovese (24%) and Nebbiolo (24%), all harvested from the Morrison Lane Vineyard. This food-friendly blend offers distinctive character of a style that is reminiscent of Italian wines. On the nose you’ll find black cherry, earthy herbs, floral notes and hints of vanilla and tar. The palate offers tart cherry flavors, toasty cedar, tropical red fruits, tobacco leaf and vanilla.
Whidbey Island Winery Dolcetto in Italian means “sweet little one.” As Dolcetto in America has evolved into several different styles, one taster noted that “Dolcetto can be one weird-ass grape.” Whether you subscribe to the former or the latter, Greg Osenbach of Whidbey Island Winery has crafted a very tasty Dolcetto that is bold, yet seductive. Aromas of earthy pepper, olive, toast and plum lead to a rich palate of black fruits, herbs and vanilla that are at home with pasta or a grilled steak.
Ponzi Vineyards Like Goldilocks tasting the Three Bears porridge, we continue to seek the “sweet little one.” Closer to the mark and complex in a truly Italian style, Ponzi Dolcetto, from the estate vineyard atop the Chehalem Mountains, is another delicious wine. Look for aromas of earthy dried cherry, strawberry, citrus, floral perfume and light toast. The palate is juicy with strawberry, citrus and vanilla.
Like the Baby Bear’s porridge, this version of Dolcetto is “just right” at matching the “sweet little one” translation. Soft and delicate with floral, raspberry and strawberry aromas and flavors, this wine evolves in the glass to charm the taster; ample acidity pairs it well with pasta or other light to medium fare. The wine is a tribute to family patriarch Angelo Pontin who emigrated to the Yakima Valley from Italy more than a century ago. Wines from other areas
Maso Canali The 500-year-old Maso Canali Estate at the foothills of the Alps has been home to vineyards since the Middle Ages. Pinot Grigio has been cultivated here since 1892 with members of the Canali family still in residence to this day. Look for aromas and flavors of nectarine and citrus with notes of pear and vanilla.
Black Stallion In July 2007, Black Stallion Winery became the latest addition to the prestigious wineries of the Napa Valley. Named for an historic equestrian center, the indoor track now houses winemaking production and the remnants of the original 36 horse stalls are still visible today. This Pinot Grigio from the North Coast AVA offers aromas and flavors of pear, citrus and honeysuckle, pairing well with light meals and appetizers.
Pedroncelli Winery
Pedroncelli wines are favorites with wine lovers across the country for their consistent quality and good value. The Sangiovese grapes for this wine were grown at the winery’s home ranch on hillside plantings designated Alto Vineyards. Look for aromas of ripe raspberry and plum with notes of light cocoa, coffee and vanilla. The palate is rich with cherry and berry flavors finishing with spicy toast. An excellent pairing with Ragu Bolognese.
Bella Sera Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes in the official Chianti region of Italy, this wine offers aromas and flavors of fresh cherry, toasty spice and notes of citrus. The palate is medium bodied and pairs well with pastas and meat dishes in tomato sauce.
Jacuzzi Family Winery Yes, this is the same Jacuzzi name that is famed for elegant rejuvenating spas that soothe your tired muscles. Wine is also a source of warmth and soothing, so the two go together. The Jacuzzi family were farmers in Northern California before the pump and spa business led to fame, and thus the connection to wine is made. Look for ripe and complex aromas of creamy berry, cherry and vanilla leading to a rich palate of dark cherry, toasty vanilla, cocoa, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate.
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