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Wines of the Week
Originally Published:  September 2, 2008

Zinfandel for Late Summer Sipping
By Chuck Hill
Part One of Two

In the beginning, Zinfandel came from California. Most still do.

Intrepid Northwest grape growers planted some of the varietal in various locations that seemed warm and dry enough to ripen the fruit and prevent bunch rot for which Zinfandel is known. Today, with literally hundreds of Zins coming from California, it is easy for Northwest versions to get lost in the shuffle.

Surprisingly, most Northwest Zins are more concentrated and powerful (read alcohol content) than the majority of California bottlings. Here are some of the best that have crossed my palate along with a selection of fine choices from the Golden State.

Animale
2006 Zinfandel
Columbia Valley
$22.00


Winemaker Matt Gubitosa strives to use only the most ripe grapes to achieve rich aromas and flavors and true varietal character. His use of new oak barrels is minimal, creating wines that are very pleasant with food and approachable at an early age.  Animale 2006 Zinfandel is ripe and rich with aromas of blackberry, black currant, peppery spice and hints of tobacco.  The palate is round with flavors of cherry and berry that complement many foods from the grill.

Maryhill Winery
2006 Zinfandel
Columbia Valley
$22.00


Perched above the spectacular Columbia River Gorge, Maryhill Winery offers a broad range of varietals including their trademark Zinfandel.  Look for rich aromas of dried cherry, chocolate, baking spice and toasty cedar. The palate offers black cherry, anise, cassis and cocoa, with finishing notes of cedar and exotic spice. Serve this delicious wine with steaks from the grill or richly sauced pastas.

Trio Vintners
2006 Zinfandel
Columbia Valley
$26.00

I was a little concerned to note this wine's alcohol content topped 16% by a couple of tenths, but it is a powerhouse that has a place in the Northwest wine lover's cellar. Aromas of ripe blackberry, black cherry, coffee and chocolate lead to a palate rich with black fruit flavors, tangy oak notes and a finish of dark chocolate and toasty vanilla.
I enjoyed this wine as a dessert accompaniment with dense, dark chocolate cake.

Zefina Winery
2005 Zinfandel
Horse Heaven Hills AVA
$22.00


Winemaker Rob Chowanietz crafted this tasty wine from grapes grown at Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. Look for aromas of rich blueberry, cherry and cocoa leading to a very well-structured palate with berry and cherry flavors and just the right hint of toasty oak.  It is quite versatile with a variety of foods, my favorite is grilled lamb. Decanting before serving is recommended by the winery.

 

Barnard Griffin
2005 Reserve Zinfandel
Hell's Gate Vineyard
$25.00

Talented winemaker Rob Griffin shows how to craft a Northwest Zinfandel that is both fruity and powerful while maintaining balance and structure.  Tangy cherry and red currant are caressed by notes of cocoa and fragrant smoke in the nose, while the palate features jammy and berry flavors with a finish of creamy vanilla and light toast - very food friendly.

 

 

Troon Vineyard
2006 Zinfandel
Applegate Valley
$25.00

Aromas of toasty cedar, peppery spice and tangy berry welcome you to this intriguing Zin from southern Oregon.  Flavors of blackberry jam, cherry and vanilla are followed by hints of cocoa and coffee on the finish. Very food friendly and a good value.

Wild Horse
2005 Zinfandel
Lime Kiln Valley, Central Coast
$22.00


The deep ruby color of this wine gives away the fact that it going to be good. Rich, California-Zin aromas of bramble, blackberry and cassis are complemented by hints of familiar higher alcohol notes.  On the palate, flavors of spicy blueberry and blackberry dance with notes of tangy cassis and cola.  Very good stuff that is not over oaked and is great with food.

Cakebread Cellars
2005 Zinfandel
Red Hills, Lake County
$41.00


Winemaker Julianne Laks must be a very clever lady to coax blockbuster aromas and flavors from obviously superb fruit while maintaining superb structure and lengthy aging potential. This wine needs breathing time to unfold and release its complexity and style: a nose of blackberry and plum with cocoa, tobacco and sweet oak.  Blackberry, raspberry and dark chocolate flavors are complemented by many nuances of dried cherry, pepper and spice. This truly wonderful wine deserves to be appreciated with care and reverence.

Dry Creek Vineyard
2005 Zinfandel
Somers Ranch, Dry Creek Valley
$34.00


It's hard to beat the best wines from those who have been making Zinfandel for many decades.  Aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry mingle with notes of tobacco and spice. The palate offers a medium mouthfeel with excellent structure, featuring flavors of spicy black cherry, brambly berry and cassis.  Serve with a mixed grill of marinated lamb, beef steak and pork tenderloin.

 

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Last revised: 09/23/2008