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the Week
By Chuck Hill

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Wines of the Week
Originally Published: September 2, 2008
Zinfandel for Late Summer Sipping
By Chuck Hill
Part One of Two
In the beginning, Zinfandel came from California. Most
still do.
Intrepid Northwest grape growers planted some of the varietal
in various locations that seemed warm and dry enough to ripen the fruit
and prevent bunch rot for which Zinfandel is known.
Today, with literally hundreds of Zins coming from California, it is
easy for Northwest versions to get lost in the shuffle.
Surprisingly,
most Northwest Zins are more concentrated and powerful (read alcohol
content) than the majority of California bottlings. Here are some of the
best that have crossed my palate along with a selection of fine choices
from the Golden State.
Animale

2006 Zinfandel
Columbia Valley
$22.00
Winemaker Matt Gubitosa strives to use only the most ripe grapes to
achieve rich aromas and flavors and true varietal character. His use of
new oak barrels is minimal, creating wines that are very pleasant with
food and approachable at an early age. Animale 2006 Zinfandel is ripe
and rich with aromas of blackberry, black currant, peppery spice and
hints of tobacco. The palate is round with flavors of cherry and berry
that complement many foods from the grill.
Maryhill Winery
2006 Zinfandel
Columbia Valley
$22.00
Perched above the spectacular Columbia River Gorge, Maryhill Winery
offers a broad range of varietals including their trademark Zinfandel. Look for rich aromas of dried cherry, chocolate, baking spice and toasty
cedar. The palate offers black cherry, anise, cassis and cocoa, with
finishing notes of cedar and exotic spice. Serve this delicious wine
with steaks from the grill or richly sauced pastas.
Trio Vintners
2006 Zinfandel
Columbia Valley
$26.00
I was a little concerned to note this wine's alcohol content topped 16%
by a couple of tenths, but it is a powerhouse that has a place in the
Northwest wine lover's cellar. Aromas of ripe blackberry, black cherry,
coffee and chocolate lead to a palate rich with black fruit flavors,
tangy oak notes and a finish of dark chocolate and toasty vanilla.
I
enjoyed this wine as a dessert accompaniment with dense, dark chocolate
cake.
Zefina Winery
2005 Zinfandel
Horse Heaven Hills AVA
$22.00
Winemaker Rob Chowanietz crafted this tasty wine from grapes grown at
Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. Look for aromas of rich
blueberry, cherry and cocoa leading to a very well-structured palate
with berry and cherry flavors and just the right hint of toasty oak. It
is quite versatile with a variety of foods, my favorite is grilled lamb.
Decanting before serving is recommended by the winery.

Barnard
Griffin
2005 Reserve Zinfandel
Hell's Gate Vineyard
$25.00
Talented winemaker Rob Griffin shows how to craft a Northwest Zinfandel
that is both fruity and powerful while maintaining balance and
structure. Tangy cherry and red currant are caressed by notes of cocoa
and fragrant smoke in the nose, while the palate features jammy and
berry flavors with a finish of creamy vanilla and light toast - very
food friendly.
Troon Vineyard
2006 Zinfandel
Applegate Valley
$25.00
Aromas of toasty cedar, peppery spice and tangy berry welcome you to
this intriguing Zin from southern Oregon. Flavors of blackberry jam,
cherry and vanilla are followed by hints of cocoa and coffee on the
finish. Very food friendly and a good value.
Wild Horse
2005 Zinfandel
Lime Kiln Valley, Central Coast
$22.00
The deep ruby color of this wine gives away the fact that it going to be
good. Rich, California-Zin aromas of bramble, blackberry and cassis are
complemented by hints of familiar higher alcohol notes. On the palate,
flavors of spicy blueberry and blackberry dance with notes of tangy
cassis and cola. Very good stuff that is not over oaked and is great with
food.
Cakebread Cellars

2005 Zinfandel
Red Hills, Lake County
$41.00
Winemaker Julianne Laks must be a very clever lady to coax blockbuster
aromas and flavors from obviously superb fruit while maintaining superb
structure and lengthy aging potential. This wine needs breathing time to
unfold and release its complexity and style: a nose of blackberry and
plum with cocoa, tobacco and sweet oak. Blackberry, raspberry and dark
chocolate flavors are complemented by many nuances of dried cherry,
pepper and spice. This truly wonderful wine deserves to be appreciated
with care and reverence.
Dry Creek Vineyard
2005 Zinfandel
Somers Ranch, Dry Creek Valley
$34.00
It's hard to beat the best wines from those who have been making
Zinfandel for many decades. Aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry mingle
with notes of tobacco and spice. The palate offers a medium mouthfeel
with excellent structure, featuring flavors of spicy black cherry,
brambly berry and cassis. Serve with a mixed grill of marinated lamb,
beef steak and pork tenderloin.
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Last revised: 09/23/2008
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