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By Chuck Hill

Chuck Hill, wine reviewer and columnist

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Wines of the Week Archive
Archived June 21, 2011
Originally Published May 25, 2011

Viognier and Friends - Oodles of Noodles
Make Friends Smile

By Chuck Hill
Part 3 of 3 (Part 1) (Part 2)

The consensus has been reached that the best food and wine pairing for white Rhone varieties is Thai cuisine.  Spicy noodle dishes like Phad Thai and other tempting treats (see article one) are made even more delicious with accompanying Viogniers and blends.  A consensus is close on the subject of blended Rhone whites being superior to 100% single varietal wines.  While Viognier has unique intensities in the floral-tropical arena, It seems best to tone it down a notch with additions of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc or other varietals. 

Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2010 Roussanne
98% Roussanne / 2% Marsanne
Horse Heaven Hills
$28.00

Winemaker Jarrod Boyle crafts a wide selection of tempting varietals from his Destiny Ridge Vineyard, none more appealing to experienced wine tasters than his Rhone whites.  In this arena, Roussanne (compared with the intensities of Viognier) is subtle with aromas and flavors of dusty mineral, orchard blossom, honeysuckle, lime zest, herbs and pear.  The winery's Marsanne bottling is also excellent with a similar flavor profile - just add a hint of nuttiness and melon.

Barnard Griffin
2009 Roussanne
Columbia Valley
$20.00

The winery's online description of the appeal of this wine echoes my opinion to the letter; "Offers dry wine enthusiasts a welcome departure from more commonplace white varieties."   This wine is an especially fine accompaniment to meals, showing aromas and flavors of honey, herbs, citrus, melon and a hint of new oak.  Upon first pouring, the nose offers dusty earth and mineral, but evolves with breathing time.

Whidbey Island Winery
2009 Roussanne
Horse Heaven Hills
$20.00

Summer is almost here, and you should plan a visit to beautiful Whidbey Island for a touch of the island life and the experience of a ferry ride.  While you are there, head over to Langley and visit Whidbey Island Winery - charming folks, tasty wines and a nice place to relax.  Greg Osenbach fermented his Roussanne with 12% Viognier, adding a little tropical and floral to the aromas and flavors of mineral, melon and light vanilla.

Tranche
2007 Roussanne/Viognier
Columbia Valley
$30.00

From the team of owners Michael Corliss and Lauri Darnielle, and winemaker Kendall Mix comes this Rhone white blend of 67% Roussanne and 33% Viognier.  Our panelists appreciated the wine for its complexity and character as well as notes contributed by the winemaker in the form of toasty caramel from barrel fermentation with a good portion of new oak.  Aromas of grapefruit zest, candy lemon and floral perfume are haunted by notes of honeyed caramel corn.  The palate offers flavors of sweet herbs, citrus and mineral with a finish of marzipan and mango.

Cristom Winery
2009 Viognier, Estate
Eola-Amity Hills AVA
$26.00

The Viognier vineyard at Cristom Winery in the Eola Hills of Oregon is just up from the winery building in the warmest part of the estate where this Rhone varietal can accumulate heat to ripen each year.  Placing high in our tasting panel, the wine offers aromas of mineral, citrus and melon with light notes of grapefruit zest and dusty herb.  The palate shows flavors of stone fruits, mineral and hints of spice and herb held in impeccable balance by the efforts of talented winemaker Steve Doerner. 

Challenger Ridge
2009 Liberty Bell
Yakima Valley
$16.00

Challenger Ridge Vineyard and Winery is in the Skagit Valley near the town of Concrete on the Skagit River.  Some grapes are brought in from the Yakima Valley, and the winery has a satellite tasting room in Woodinville.  Liberty Bell is a blend of a handful of varietals including 15% Viognier.  Look for aromas of grassy herbs, lemon and peach leading to a palate of pear drop, citrus and herbs.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards
2009 Calico White
Columbia Valley
$19.00

This tasty white wine is a blend of 42% Roussanne, 33% Viognier, 17% Chardonnay and 8% Marsanne.  The nose offers the aromas of dusty mineral, white peach, lemon zest and pear.  On the palate you'll enjoy flavors of citrus, tropical fruits, mineral and melon - very enjoyable with Thai cuisine or other light dishes.

McKinley Springs
2008 Confluence
Horse Heaven Hills
$12.00

This value priced bottling from McKinley Springs features a smooth palate with just under 1% residual sugar.  Crafted from 56% Chenin Blanc and 44% Viognier, it is an unusual blend that seems to work.  Look for aromas of white peach, citrus and floral perfume leading to a palate of fresh lemon lime, peach, pineapple and vanilla.  A nice sip for before dinner or for those seeking an off-dry dinner wine.

 

Eden Vale Winery
2003 Late Harvest Viognier
Rogue Valley
$25.00 (375ml) 

This charming late harvest wine dates from the very first releases of Eden Vale Winery.  Almost a decade old, but still fresh and bright, the wine offers aromas and flavors of ripe citrus and spicy tropical fruits reminiscent of Christmas ribbon candy.  It is a treat to savor after a light meal, accompanied by Rogue Blue Cheese, nuts and fruit.


 

From other areas:

Eberle
2009 Cotes-du-Robles Blanc
Paso Robles
$24.00

It's wines like this one - a blend of 65% Grenache Blanc and 35% Viognier - that convince me all Rhone white wines should be blended from two or more varietals.  Delicious aromas of fresh orange (where does that come from???), mineral, melon and mango lead to a crisp palate of fresh pear and citrus.  This wine was barrel fermented (20% new oak) but doesn't show any ill effects from the experience, only rich, balanced goodness and a long, complex finish.

Tablas Creek Vineyards
2010 Patelin de Tablas Blanc
Paso Robles
$20.00

The closest this wine came to an oak barrel was when it flowed by the barrel cellar in the hose.  All stainless steel fermentation for this blend of Grenache Blanc (50%), Viognier (33%), Roussanne (10%) and Marsanne (7%) created a delicious wine for pairing with seafood or Asian cuisine - or just sipping with stimulating conversation.  Lemon and mineral dominate with notes of tropical fruits from the Viognier.

Cline
2010 Marsanne/Roussanne (71% / 29%)
Sonoma Coast
$20.00

The cool, foggy summer mornings in the Sonoma Coast AVA helped contribute to the superb balance of this classic Northern Rhone-style blend.  Aromas and flavors of  citrus and spice linger on the palate with notes of stone fruits, mineral and a hint of vanilla - truly superb wine to pair with Thai cuisine.

Villicana Winery
2010 Viognier
Paso Robles
$24.00

This food-friendly Viognier was crafted by Alex and Monica Villicana at their Westside Paso Robles winery.  This couple is "hands on" in their operation from grape growing to winemaking - and you can even meet them in the winery tasting room on weekends.  Look for ripe aromas and flavors of peach, melon and citrus with tropical notes and a touch of vanilla.

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