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By Chuck Hill
CHUCK'S CURRENT EARLIER COLUMNS Cabernet Sauvignon & Meritage Wines
Oyster-Friendly Wines
Meat Merlot
Summer Zinfandels
The Mystery of Viognier
Versatile Pinot Noir
Wines of the Week REVIEWS BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
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Smile and Say, “Gewürztraminer!” This aromatic grape variety can probably trace its origins to the Northern Italy village of Traminer, home to the Traminer grape from which Gewürztraminer was born. The variety offers the distinctive aroma of lychee, with notes of roses, pear, floral perfume and citrusy mandarin orange. A popular variety in Alsace, Gewurz is often paired with charcuterie. We
took a more modern pairing to begin our research, matching the wines
with Asian cuisine. From our local Tasty Thai restaurant Chef Ted
selected Phad Thai (chicken, 2 stars), Swimming Rama (chicken in peanut
sauce with spinach, 2 stars) and Green Curry (2 stars though tasted like
3 stars). The dry and off-dry Gewürztraminer
selections were quite delicious with these choices. Late-harvest styles
were tasted with ripe Brie cheese and French bread. Winemaker Myron Redford has been making Gewurz for decades, and his dry style is a benchmark for the variety as made in the Northwest. Aromas of lychee, pear and rose petal lead to a complex palate featuring flavors of the above aromas plus a little punch of melon and citrus. A delicious complement to Asian cuisine.
Dowsett Family Winery The Dowsett Family Winery is in Walla Walla where Chris Dowsett crafts Gewürztraminer and a southern Rhone-inspired red blend called Devotion. This wine, from the famed Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge AVA, offers aromas of citrus, lychee, vanilla and floral perfume. The forward palate is crisp with flavors of lychee, pear, green apple.
Gilbert Cellars This is the inaugural vintage of Gilbert Cellars’ estate-grown Gewürztraminer, from fruit grown in the foothills of the cascades in the Ahtanum Valley. Look for bright citrus and lychee in the nose with notes of allspice and rose. The palate is rich with pear and mandarin orange flavors, finishing with floral perfume.
Hogue Cellars The
Hogue Cellars staff recommends pairing this wine with Thai curries and
dishes with peanut sauce, so we knew we were on the right track. Look
for light aromas of pear and dusty rose with notes of lychee and spicy
citrus. The palate is bright with pear and tangerine flavors with
earthy-piney notes and a clean finish that complements our Asian
entrees.
Columbia Winery Gewürztraminer was a favorite varietal of David Lake, Columbia’s longtime winemaker who passed away earlier this year. Over the years, we had the pleasure of sharing some of his early vintages that aged very well. In Columbia’s 2007 vintage, aromas of stone fruits, vanilla and floral perfume greet the taster and set the stage for a very tasty Gewurz. The palate is off-dry, featuring sweet flavors of nectarine and lychee with a tangy finish of grapefruit and pineapple.
Covey Run This bargain Gewürztraminer shows the spicy lychee, rose petal and lemon aromas that define the varietal. Flavors of pear, lychee, citrus and melon – with notes of candied flower petals – match up well with the complex flavors of Thai curry and spicy Phad Thai. Makes me want to call in an order and pull a cork!
Maryhill Winery If you are looking for a very pleasant aperitif to serve your guests before your dinner party, this wine fills the bill. Lighter in style, it shows aromas of pear, baking spice, marzipan and floral perfume. The palate is off-dry with flavors of apple and pear, with notes of anise and mandarin orange.
RockWall Cellars There are not too many wineries in Omak, in Washington’s Central Okanogan region. Doug Sheets and Greg Rahn of RockWall Cellars craft a full line of red and white wines, even a Port! Their 2007 Gewurz offers aromas of dusty rose, citrus and baking spice with floral notes and a hint of lychee. The palate is very food friendly with crisp acidity and a spicy mineral finish.
This was our favorite dessert style Gewurz of the day, served with ripe brie cheese and crusty French bread. Though not specifically labeled “ice wine,” the label implies that the wine was made from frozen grapes. Aromas of lychee, spicy orange and notes of botrytis lead to a palate of similar flavors and a well-balanced finish of sweetness and complementary acidity.
Watermill Winery
This award-winning sweetie features aromas of apple and pear with notes
of lychee and vanilla. The palate is delectably sweet with good acid
balance and a long finish of complex fruit flavors. Grapes came from
the respected Biscuit Ridge Vineyard east of Walla Walla.
Three Rivers Winery Honey and Lychees and Peaches, Oh My! Another wine sourced from Biscuit Ridge Vineyard, this offering is ripe with stone fruits, lychee, honey, vanilla and floral perfume. Juicy and sweet on the palate with 7.5% residual sugar, this wine paired very well with our cheese and bread selection.
Gordon Brothers Vinted in 2005, this wine has matured to show some interesting complexity that devotees of aging late-harvest wines will admire. The nose offers spicy tea rose and Asian pear with mature tobacco leaf and caramel notes. The palate is rich with candy caramel and pear that complement your best cheese board.
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One-year
Archive of previous
Wines of the Week reviews
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Amity
Vineyards 
Abiqua
Wind Vineyard 
