|
|
|
|
WINES By Chuck Hill
About Chuck
CHUCK'S CURRENT REVIEWS
BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
|
Wines of the Week Archive
Versatile Chardonnay - Variety Reigns This year we have tasted many truly enjoyable Chardonnays with lighter, crisp versions complemented by rich, barrel-fermented wines that offer caramel, vanilla and toasty oak. Each of these styles pairs with food selections in different ways. Rich cream sauces and meats caramelized on the grill, offer complements full-bodied wines, while fresh seafood with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of salt and pepper is an excellent foil for lighter Chardonnays. As the days of summer approach, enjoy the selections below.
Adelsheim Vineyard
Adlesheim Vineyard is celebrating their 40th anniversary this year - seems like just yesterday that I was standing with David Adelsheim in the driveway of his home with attached winery looking out over the vineyard. Ahhh, time flies. You too, can relive the past by enjoying Adelsheim's superb Willamette Valley Chardonnay - all Dijon clone makes a difference! - featuring bright aromas of mineral, Asian pear and floral perfume leading to a crisp palate with flavors of citrus and pear. It is great with lighter meals.
Stoller Vineyards Bill and Cathy Stoller have a history in Oregon wine going back to the 1980s and a connection to Yamhill County going back to the 1940s. The family farm just south of Dundee was a turkey-raising operation for many years as well as a producer of other Oregon crops. The Stollers partnered with Harry Peterson-Nedry in Chehalem Winery, planted vineyards on part of the turkey farm property, and finally established Stoller Vineyards winery with their first bottling of Pinot Noir in 2001. This barrel-fermented wine offers aromas of lemon, honey, pear and vanilla with the palate adding apple and mineral flavors - an all-around crowd pleaser with fowl or fish.
Woodward Canyon Winemaker/owner Rick Small crafted this rich and voluptuous Chardonnay from grapes grown at Celilo Vineyard, Columbia Gorge AVA (64%), and his estate vineyard, Walla Walla AVA (36%). These two distinct properties complement one another to create structure, complexity and richness. Aromas of toasty butter, pineapple, stone fruits and toasted hazelnuts mingle with notes of earth and spice. The palate offers apple and pear in the front and a wave of toasty vanilla, caramel, mango and baking spice on the finish.
Schmidt Family Vineyards Cal and Judy Schmidt invite you to visit their family winery in Oregon's Applegate Valley south of Grant's Pass. Their elegant winery and grounds complement the rural setting, and a full range of wines is crafted from local fruit. The 2008 Chardonnay features aromas and flavors of pear and apple, with notes of mineral, baking spice and floral perfume. The wine is crafted with rich, mouth-filling texture and balancing crisp acidity - superb with your favorite springtime fare.
Phelps Creek Vineyards Phelps Creek Vineyards is one of the wine operations that will continue to keep the Columbia Gorge AVA on the top of consumers' and wine critics' minds alike. They produce excellent wines crafted in food-friendly styles with a nod to maintaining varietal character throughout. The Reserve Chardonnay was barrel fermented in French oak and offers aromas of citrus, ripe pear, vanilla and floral perfume. The palate is well structured with flavors of lemon, golden apple, mineral and barrel spice - rich but not cloying - and great with roasted chicken!
You will not find a more charming locale or winery property than San Juan Vineyards on its namesake island between Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. Both the island and winery are rich with history; the island's history is much older. A visit during the summer or fall is a treat. Cool climate varietals Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine are grown at the winery's vineyard in the Puget Sound AVA. Grapes for the 2008 Chardonnay were harvested from the Yakima Valley. Look for aromas of ripe pear, sweet herbs and light notes of toasty oak. The palate opens with sweet pear drop, floral notes and spicy clove, finishing with pear and vanilla.
Columbia Crest The Columbia Crest Winery was among the first to plant extensive vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills area (now AVA) along the Columbia River. Grapes from these estate vineyards produced this reserve Chardonnay from the stellar 2008 vintage. The wine was barrel fermented and aged sur lie, producing complexity and character that only such treatment can create. Look for aromas of ripe tropical fruits with toasty/buttery vanilla and pear. The palate adds caramel notes and a finish of citrusy vanilla. Serve as an over-the-top sipping wine or with rich pastas and seafood.
Coeur d'Alene Cellars Like the intense Syrah wines crafted by CdA Cellars, the 2009 Chardonnay offers the intensity of ripe flavors and powerful barrel-fermented character to give the true Chardonnay lover a moving experience. Look for aromas of ripe pear, stone fruits and vanilla cream, leading to a rich palate with flavors of butterscotch, baked apple, vanilla and toasty oak. Serve with chicken from the grill with butternut squash.
Naked Winery
"This is a delicious way to warm up an evening. Who doesn't like
Foreplay, ladies?" If clever commentary, paired with a wink, a smile
and a shapely silhouette, can't find a place in the world of Northwest
wine, then we have become too stodgy. The folks at Naked Winery in
Hoodsport take full advantage of every opportunity to promote their
wines with provocative prose and a teasing manner. You can enjoy their
tasty Chardonnay with any lighter meal for its light aromas and flavors
of apple and pear, with hints of vanilla, mineral and spice.
Buried Cane Buried Cane introduces its new label design with four varietals including this tasty Chardonnay nick-named "Whiteline" for a term common in woodcut printing (the art on the label). The wine is stainless-steel fermented and offers aromas and flavors of green apple and citrus with notes of hazelnut, citrus zest and baking spices.
Forgeron Cellars Complexity, power and consistency have been the hallmarks of Forgeron Cellars Chardonnay for many years. Marie Eve Gilla selects fruit from diverse Columbia Valley vineyards and gives it the spa treatment in 100% French oak, 1/3 new. Zesty aromas of stone fruits, pineapple, mineral and vanilla lead to a mouth-filling palate of creamy butter and toast with ripe tropical fruit flavors and a finish of citrus and vanilla. Marie Eve suggests Salmon Risotto.
Milbrandt Vineyards The Milbrandt brothers' 452- acre Evergreen Vineyard was planted in 1998 on a bluff above the Columbia River near George, Washington. It has become famous as a source for white grapes - especially Chardonnay - for dozens of Washington's most respected wineries. Winemaker Gordy Hill crafted this tasty wine using sur lie aging to add complexity to the exceptional fruit and mineral character. Aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, stone fruits and Asian pear are complemented by notes of smoke, vanilla and citrus. It has great acid balance and pairs well with any light meal.
Lange Winery Winemaker Jesse Lange dubs this wine "Lingerie Chardonnay" - fermented partially in stainless steel (naked) and partially in neutral oak (lightly cloaked). The wine is a blend of fruit from Lange Vineyard, Freedom Hill Vineyard and Durant Vineyard, each lending a different terroir to the final blend. Look for bright lemon and grapefruit aromas with notes of peach and melon. The palate shows a sweet side with melon and pear leading to a lingering citrus and vanilla finish.
ROCO Winery is the culmination of a dream by Rollin Soles - the winemaking force behind Argyle Winery - and his wife Corby Stonebraker-Soles. Both partners have been intimately involved in the Oregon wine industry for several decades. The Thunderbird petroglyph is a representation of ancient native art found in the Columbia Gorge. Aromas of light pear and citrus lead to a delicate palate featuring flavors of ripe pear, grapefruit and vanilla.
Northwest Wine Academy Instructor/Winemaker Peter Bos of the Northwest Wine Academy at South Seattle Community College often has his students craft experimental wines using different techniques to demonstrate the results. Two Chardonnays were produced from this lot of grapes from Wyckoff Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The first Chardonnay was fermented in stainless steel and the second was barrel fermented in mostly seasoned oak barrels. The resulting wines show the effect of stainless fermentation (fresh fruit aromas, light palate, crisp finish) and of barrel fermentation with sur lie aging (toasty, complex aromas with mature fruit notes, medium palate, lingering creamy finish). Such wines are made in very small quantities so they are not available commercially. You can visit the South Seattle Community College campus to buy wines at the program's wine shop.
Maryhill Winery Maryhill Winery is perched on a ridge above the spectacular Columbia Gorge with panoramic views and lots of visitor amenities. Their Memorial Day Weekend celebration includes live music, Hawaiian Barbecue and tastes of their wide variety of wines. Enjoy the 2009 Chardonnay featuring aromas and flavors of sweet pear, toasty apple, floral perfume and citrusy vanilla. Wines from other areas:
Grgich Hills Estate For those who demand the very finest Chardonnay with impeccable balance, structure, varietal character and nuances from dedicated winemaking, you need look no further than Grgich Hills Estate. Aromas of ripe stone fruits, fleshy tropical fruits, citrus and mineral are complemented by notes of orange blossom and vanilla. The palate is perfectly structured with bright acidity balancing richness from barrel aging, and complex flavors of peach, mango, apple and mineral carrying through to the finish. It is a delightful companion to seafood, chicken or pork dishes.
Freestone As white wine prices head north of $40, serious wine lovers put on their game face and begin earnest contemplation of each wine's attributes. Freestone Chardonnay has been the favorite of this column in previous vintages, but the current vintage nearly through me for a loop. The wine needs some breathing time to show its stuff. Not just a few minutes, but perhaps an hour or more. Take note. Once opened up, look for complex aromas of tropical blossoms, citrus, melon and herbs, with notes of oak and buttery candy in the background. The palate is definitely food worthy with lean flavors of mineral and grapefruit, with hints of stone fruit flavor, vanilla and caramel on the finish.
La Crema
The long, cool growing season of the Sonoma Coast AVA is a nearly perfect climate for growing Chardonnay, and La Crema's Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is a hallmark of the region's potential. A blend of clonal selections is the basis for this bottling including several California clones (Clone 4, Robert Young and Rued) along with Dijon clone fruit which has become more widely planted in recent years. Look for bright aromas of citrus and ripe apple with notes of toasty oak and butterscotch. The palate is well structured with a base of citrus and pear flavors, enhanced by hints of caramel and floral perfume, and finishing with lingering citrus and vanilla.
Kendall-Jackson Kendall-Jackson's history of producing exceptional varietal wines from California's cool coastal regions takes another step forward with the release of this refreshing, food-friendly Chardonnay. Avant is a blend of Chardonnay wines fermented 50% in stainless steel and 50% in neutral oak barrels. Bright varietal character shines through in both the nose and on the palate showing aromas/flavors of pineapple, citrus, green apple, pear and orchard flowers. Hints of barrel fermentation linger on the finish, framing the attenuated Chardonnay fruit and adding complexity for food pairings.
The Pedroncelli family has been making wine in Sonoma County for over 80 years, and they have a loyal following across the country for their clean varietal wines that show hints of the rustic character that were once the hallmark of the county. The winery's barrel-fermented Chardonnay is crafted from grapes grown exclusively at the Frank Johnson Vineyard, a property that straddles the demarcation line between the Russian River Valley and Dry Creek Valley AVAs. Look for aromas of melon, pineapple and lemon grass with notes of vanilla and toasted oak. The palate is rich and creamy with flavors of green apple and pear with hints of mineral and vanilla. This wine is a superb value for a rich and characterful, barrel-fermented Chardonnay.
Coldstream Hills Situated in the picturesque Yarra Valley east of Melbourne, Coldstream Hills was established in 1985 by James and Suzanne Halliday. The fruit harvested from the upper and lower Yarra Valley provide complexity and backbone to this appealing food wine. Aromas of grapefruit and peach lead to a rich palate of stone-fruit flavors with notes of citrus and sur lie character from 9 months aging in French oak. # # #
One-year
Archive of previous
Wines of the Week reviews
Copyright
© 2011 Chuck Hill |
San
Juan Vineyards 
Roco
Winery 
Pedroncelli
Winery 