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WINES By Chuck Hill
About Chuck
CHUCK'S CURRENT REVIEWS
BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
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Wines of the Week Archive
Up and Coming Red Wines - Malbec
Each year there are a number of red wine varieties that don't fit
conveniently into
my tasting schedule of mainstream reds. Some of these varieties - and
blends of
these varieties - are gaining popularity and deserve recognition. This
next series
of articles reviews varietals and blends that are gaining popularity
among
consumers and are showing increased plantings in the Northwest and
beyond.
Seven Hills was among the very first to plant Malbec in the Walla Walla
Valley
and winemaker Casey McClellan still makes the best of this variety in
the region.
The wine offers aromas of exotic red plum, spicy citrus, lavender and
ripe berry.
On the palate, flavors of rich blueberry, floral notes and black pepper
lead to a
toasty, spicy finish with lingering blackberry and vanilla. It is
a truly delicious
wine and a unanimous first place winner.
This winery in beautiful Sandpoint, Idaho, sources much of its fruit
from vineyards
in Washington's nearby Columbia Valley. This wine was sourced from
the
Freepons Vineyard in the top of the Rosa District in the Yakima Valley.
The nose
offers notes of blackberry, lavender, spicy tangerine and field herbs.
Flavors of
berry, lime zest and vanilla frame the palate with notes of earth and
spicy oak on
the finish.
Winemakers/owners Pat and Loree Spangler are among the most talented and
hard working vintners in Oregon. Crafting more than a dozen
different varietal wines,
their label is most frequently in the gold medal circle at wine
competitions both
large and small. This wine shows the broad spectrum of varietal
character
possible with Malbec, including violets, lavender and rose petal from
the flower
garden, tangy blackberry and cassis from the berry patch and ripe,
mellow plum
from the orchard. It is well balanced on the palate and is a
superb
accompaniment to spicy meats and sauces.
Earl Jones was one of the first to recognize the potential for growing
warm
weather varietals from Spain in Oregon's warm Umpqua Valley. Along
with his
favorite Tempranillo, he also grows Garnacha [called Grenache in
France], Malbec, Syrah, Albarino, Viognier and others. This wine
shows Malbec's ripe fruit character in a very appealing way, with ripe
blueberries and dried cherries defining aroma and flavor. Floral
notes, citrus, herbs and a hint of mint follow, creating a complex,
food-friendly experience.
This relatively new winery is located just off Interstate 5 in
Ridgefield, Washington. Visitor facilities and a 15-acre vineyard
are in place. The Brothers' 2008 release of Malbec opens with
aromas of earthy vanilla, black pepper, floral notes of violets and
lavender, and brambly black fruits. The palate is firm with medium
tannins over deep flavors of berry and cherry - a tasty complement to
meats from the grill.
Winemaker/owner Tim Narby crafted this Malbec from grapes grown at
Verhey
Vineyard near Union Gap, Washington in the western Yakima Valley.
The
inspired combination of terroir-driven fruit with just the right
oak-barrel regimen
produced a unique and appealing wine. Look for aromas of earthy
eucalyptus
and rich boysenberry leading to a palate with berry flavors with notes
of herbs
and citrus. A pleasant finish of cherry and herbs makes for a
great combination
with rich meats and sauces. Needs breathing time to develop full
character. Crafted by winemakers Juan Munoz Oca and Ray Einberger from grapes grown in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, this wine is Columbia Crest's debut vintage of Reserve Malbec. The wine was aged in 100% new French and American oak, and blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep inky color suggests a powerful wine. Aromas of dusty herb, berry and spicy oak lead to a rich palate with boysenberry, plum and smoky flavors with notes of spicy oak and dark chocolate. Needs breathing time.
Wines of Substance
Well-made wines at a fair price is the goal of Wines of Substance winery
from Walla Walla, Washington. Creating a Periodic Table of wine
varietals, these talented wine folks seek out great fruit from noted
vineyards and create an array of single-varietal bottlings of varietally
true wines. The Substance 2009 Malbec offers aromas and flavors of
ripe berry, toasty oak, lavender and earthy herbs.
This Malbec is part of Rob Griffin's limited release Reserve program,
and is
crafted from grapes grown in the eastern Yakima Valley. Look for
ripe black fruit
aromas with notes of spicy pepper, smoky earth and toasty oak.
Flavors of
blackberry and cherry mingle with hints of lavender and tangy citrus on
the palate
- a winner with spicy foods and tomato-based sauces.
The grapes for this Malbec came from the Milbrandt brothers Northridge
Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. Look for aromas of tangy
blackberry, citrus,
toasty oak and floral notes of violet and lavender. Rich berry and
spicy oak on
the palate lead to a finish of juicy vanilla. You can taste
Milbrandt Vineyards
wines and learn more about the winery at their tasting room in Prosser's
Vintners
Village.
If you need an excuse to go out for a wine tour, head for the Columbia
Gorge to
visit Maryhill Winery. Readers have recently reported fantastic
touring
experiences, and September offers two concert dates that are not to be
missed:
9/17:
Michael McDonald and Boz Scaggs and 9/24: Counting Crows...but
on to the wine! Maryhill's Malbec bursts with floral perfume and
toasty oak over a bed of dried
cherry and berry on both the nose and palate. It improves with
breathing and is a
great pairing with meats from the grill.
This wine comes from a warm vintage that ripened fast, but due to
Washington's
cool nights, the wine retained lively acidity and balance. Grapes
were harvested
from Lonesome Springs Ranch near Benton City and Phinny Hill Vineyard in
the
Horse Heaven Hills. Aromas and flavors of cassis, citrus and
floral perfume are
complemented by notes of earth and spicy barrel toast.
This wine is part of Eden Vale Winery's Pearhouse Reserve program
crafted by
winemaker Ashley Campanella. These wines were created to highlight
Southern
Oregon's Rogue Valley as the ideal climate for red wine grapes.
Look for
intense, dark color with aromas and flavors of cassis, mature berry
fruit, vanilla
and notes of tobacco, lilac and spicy herb.
Clayhouse is part of Middleton Family Wines which also owns Cadaretta
and
Buried Cane wines in Washington State. This wine hails from Paso
Robles in
California and offers great value in a rich and flavorful wine.
Look for ripe plum
aromas with notes of cranberry, citrus and vanilla. The palate
offers blackberry
and baking spice flavors with toasty oak and vanilla on the finish. Alamos Malbec is part of the Catena family holdings that have been producing wine in Mendoza since 1902. This wine takes on the earthy side of Malbec with light vegetative notes mingling with red fruits and aromas of lavender and citrus. The palate is fresh and spicy with blackberry and cherry flavors.
Black Box
Some tasters didn't find distinct Malbec character in this bargain pour,
but all
agreed that it was a very palatable red wine for the equivalent of $6.25
a bottle.
The wine comes from the Mendoza region of Argentina in the foothills of
the
Andes Mountain Range where vineyards are among the highest in elevation
in
the world at 2000 to 4700 feet above sea level. Aromas of juicy
blackberry,
earth, cocoa and citrus are pleasant and balanced. The palate
offers smooth
flavors of berry and spice, great with meats from the grill.
The Malbec vines for DiSeño's Old Vine wine are up to 40 years old and
are
irrigated from snowmelt of the Andes. Aromas of dried cherries and
ripe plums
mingle with earthy notes and hints of citrus. The palate is fruity
with spicy black
cherry and plum flavors. Light and approachable now for immediate
enjoyment
with end-of-summer grilled meats. This brand from California offers a variety of quality-for-value wines from winegrowing regions around the world. This bargain Mendoza Malbec is at price point for casual sipping, picnicking or pouring at a party. Light aromas of cherry and dusty spice are complemented by notes of eucalyptus and vanilla. The easy-drinking palate offers flavors of spicy red fruits, light herbs and hints of vanilla.
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One-year
Archive of previous
Wines of the Week reviews
Copyright
© 2011 Chuck Hill |
Columbia Crest 
