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By Chuck Hill
CHUCK'S CURRENT PREVIOUSLY ARCHIVED SERIES
Oyster-Friendly Wines EARLIER COLUMNS
Meat Merlot
Summer Zinfandels
The Mystery of Viognier
Versatile Pinot Noir
Wines of the Week REVIEWS BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
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Cabernet Sauvignon & Meritage Blends Let’s start out with some basics. The five major grapes of Bordeaux are: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Many Meritage (rhymes with heritage) blends (aka Bordeaux blends) are constructed from these varietals. Most wines labeled “Cabernet Sauvignon” contain one or more of the other grapes in the blend. We
are currently tasting Cabernet Sauvignon wines (usually 75% or more
Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend) and Bordeaux blends (usually less than
50% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend) with simply prepared lamb and beef
steak. The quality of the first wines tasted was high, and the amount
of objectionable oak was minimal.
Brian Carter
Cellars This spectacular wine is a blend of the five Bordeaux varietals mentioned above. Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 50% of the blend and is sourced from Red Mountain. The nose bursts with complex aromas of blackberry, cassis, vanilla, coffee and tobacco, with notes of anise and cinnamon. The palate is bright with tangy black currant flavors, vanilla, dark chocolate and spicy oak. Delicious with both beef and lamb. Also look for BCC’s Abracadabra blend in a lighter style offered at just $20.
Chateau Ste.
Michelle Almost 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the 30-year-old Cold Creek Vineyard, one finds the nuances that come from a mature grape source evident both in the nose and on the palate. Hearty berry and herb aromas greet the nose with notes of spice and toasty oak. The palate also shows the earthy, herbal side of Cabernet, pairing extremely well with the rich, slightly gamy flavors of lamb.
L’Ecole No 41 Winemaker Marty Clubb crafts this distinctive wine from fruit grown at the acclaimed Seven Hills Vineyard in the southern part of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. The blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc combines to reveal a complex aroma that includes blackberry, anise, garden herbs, mineral and toasty oak. The palate begins with a lean and spicy profile, until the meat hits the tongue, when the ripe and juicy berry and cassis flavors mingle and make merry to create a true carnivore’s delight.
For a winery’s second label wine (Woodward Canyon), this is a blockbuster of intensity and character. Loads of black cherry, cassis, herb, tarry notes and hints of vanilla greet your nose, and the rich, fruity, chewy palate can stand up to any steak that crosses your plate. The blend is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot and 8% Syrah. This final portion is not a traditional Bordeaux component, but many Washington wineries add in a touch for complexity and backbone.
Rombauer Vineyards
Those who have an appreciation for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon will
do well to scout out a bottle or two of this tempting selection. Aromas
of black cherry and cedar are the foundation with notes of mint,
eucalyptus and olive. The palate is rich with black fruits and finishes
with a waft of vanilla over the medium tannins.
Dunham Cellars This vintage of Eric Dunham’s tasty Bordeaux blend (named for the Latin word for “balance”) includes equal amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and just a 3% smidge of Syrah. Look for appealing fruit on the nose, featuring ripe cherry, pomegranate, toasty oak and floral notes. The palate offers rich berry flavors, vanilla and medium tannins that create a nice balance with meat from the grill.
Five Star Cellars Five Star Cellars began as a retirement project for David Huse in 2001. Expansion of production coincided with David’s son, Matt, coming on board as winemaker following his completion of the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program. This classic Cabernet Sauvignon offers aromas of blueberry, cherry and spicy oak, leading to a rich palate offering berry flavors with notes of leather, coffee and smoky oak. Very well balanced and ageworthy, but enjoyable with hearty meats now.
337 This wine is named for the French vine clone of Cabernet planted in the Clay Station Vineyard in Lodi. The nose is enticingly forward offering cassis, raspberry, earth and vanilla. The palate adds nuances of spicy oak, anise and a blueberry pie finish. A very good value that accompanies both steak and lamb.
Milbrandt Vineyards Harvested from Milbrandt’s Northridge and Clifton Hills Vineyards, the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend is joined by Petit Verdot and Malbec. The result is a wine rich in earthy/smoky aromas wrapped around a core of blackberry and cassis fruit. Cherry flavors mingle with plum and barrel spice on the palate. Silky tannins cradle each bite of savory lamb.
Cathedral Ridge Chef Ted remarked that this was like the “old style” of Cabernet Sauvignon with its ripe cherry, green olive, smoky toast and cassis aromas and flavors. Indeed, this style of forward Cabernet fruit is blended with 50% Merlot to create a very enjoyable wine pairing with lamb or beef. Good value.
Foundry Vineyards Walla Walla is such a creative place! The wine and fine arts communities have grown up together and have benefited one another along the way. Foundry owners Mark and Patty Anderson started growing grapes, then opened the winery, and this year brought in a partner in painter Squire Broels and his wife Amber. The inaugural Cabernet from 2003 is rich and fruity, but also exhibits the earthy/herby side of the varietal. The 2006 Red Wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, is straight-ahead black cherry, cassis and toasty vanilla. By the way, Squire Broels opens a new exhibition of paintings in November at the Catherine Person Gallery in Seattle.
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One-year
Archive of previous
Wines of the Week reviews
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Nelms
Road 
Foundry
Vineyards